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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.